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Life on Ambootia™ Tea Estate

Come Home with me..........

by Shashank Goel, Ambootia™ Tea

View slides from Ambootia™ Tea Estate

It's six in the morning and the first rays of sunlight entering my room through the skylight accompanied by the sound of the birds chirping awaken me. I am treated to my first cup of tea - a flavorful light and bright first flush processed the previous day. I can feel the tenderness of the first bloom in the flavor of the cup and it is an enriching experience.

Walking out into the lawns of the bungalow where I have spent a considerable amount of time, having grown up here, I am mesmerized by the scenery around me. Even after so many years, all that is around me looks different each day and it is a very fulfilling experience. The majestic hills of the Himalayas covered by tea for as far as the eye can see and a variety of flora and fauna provide for a very lush green setting. The moist fresh aroma from the tea within a few yards of where I stand, the dew drops lazily dancing on the leaves and the fresh smell of the rich soil awaken me completely.

I am home. If you are still wondering, I am at the Ambootia tm Tea Estate in Darjeeling - a corruption of the word - Dorje and ling which as approximately means the place of the thunderbolt. I should mention to you that I could hear the sound of thunder at night resonate through the valley bouncing back and forth in between the mountains followed by the soft sounds of rain drops. This phenomenon is very common in this region and the rain at night very beneficial for tea.

From my vantage point which is at about 4,000 feet in a valley surrounded by the mountains, I can see twenty five of the 86 tea estates which occupy a total area of about 19,000 hectares in the Darjeeling district and which give us the world's finest tea. Today, being a sunny and clear day, I can see the snow capped peaks of the third highest mountain in the world - Kanchendzonga which stands in all it's glory at 28,168 feet above sea level. Throughout the day, the clouds come and leave the valley and the sunlight playing on the tea through the clouds creates images that change by the hour that will keep an artist mesmerized.

As I make my way through the path in between the tea bushes, I am greeted by sound of laughter of the children, who are dressed in their blue school uniforms sporting ties and blazers on their way to school - one of the seven free educational centers at this estate provided to the employees at no charge. In the distance, I can see the women wearing very colorful dresses with their plucking baskets resting on their heads making their way through the tea bushes mostly in single line formation meandering the hilly tracts on their way to work. The sounds of the birds chirping, the dogs barking, sound of water flowing in the streams occasionally being obstructed by waterfalls, the cheerful laughter and conversation of all around create a very serene, peaceful feeling that one can not describe in words.

The majority of the workers in the Darjeeling tea plantations are of Nepalese origin. They are a very capable, cheerful and alert group of people. Born cultivators, resourceful and hard-working they are a very religious group with high regard for family. Though small in stature, they have very big hearts and they are a very fun loving group of people. They live in the numerous villages on the plantation, housing being provided to them at no charge by the estate. In addition, they are also provided plots of land to cultivate fruits, vegetables, Herb's and spices that they consume for themselves and sell in the local markets to augment their income. Each family also has cows and fowl, the milk and eggs of which they consume. They have been living in these houses for generations and although some family members move on to other parts of the world to pursue careers other than tea, the majority of the people continue to live on the estate and work on the plantation.

Dedication and commitment are a natural fall out of the unity of vision that is encouraged on the estates. The worker being an involved and valued contributor believes in the spirit of team work. A cohesive and stimulating environment creates conditions for effortless self expression.

As the day goes on, I observe the pluckers move through the mountain slopes plucking tea while others are carefully processing the tea in the factory or tending to the large variety of flora and fauna that surrounds me. Occasionally, they will rest and drink their tea to give them strength, while at the same time, they go though their baskets sorting out the unwanted leaf, leaving only the tender two leaf and a bud, a practice that comes to them naturally to uphold the high quality level of the produce.

At about four in the evening, when the siren blows, I am again greeted by the workers making their way back home to their children, plants, animals and significant others. After, having my evening cup of tea - I have had at least six cups by now, I make my way down to the main playing field and recreational centers that have been provided for the workers. In progress are intense games of soccer, cricket and volleyball. Having noticed me, I am immediately invited to join in to a game of cricket. I am completely immersed in the game while the crowd of onlookers cheer us on, while others are either involved in other outdoor activities or are busy in the indoor recreational facilities or computer centers available for their use. Throughout the year, there are numerous tournaments held between the villages on an estate and even with neighboring estates.

Having a good workout, I make my way back to retire for the evening. On my way, I stop at the temple located on the estate. This place of worship has been here on the estate for over 100 years and draws pilgrims from as far away as Mynamar, Nepal, Bhutan and the neighboring state of Sikkim. Diwali and Dusshera, two of the most important religious festivals in this region are celebrated in October. During this month, there are numerous holidays and it is a season of celebrations, carnivals and rejoicing similar to the Christmas season here in the West.

After dinner, which consists of produce grown within the estate, all of which is fresh, I go back out to the verandah and sit under the clear sky and watch the full moon bring all of natures energies to the surface and observe the bright stars, an experience that is impossible to enjoy in the major developed cities all around the world. Sounds of people singing and playing musical instruments and rejoicing accompanied by the occasional sound of laughter, clapping and the various animals and insects that exist within the plantation make for a perfectly balanced eco-system. These sounds accompanied by an occasional chant envelope the valley and bounce though the hills, make me feel completely at home and at peace with myself and all those who live here and give me the opportunity to return back to nature and be in harmony with all that surrounds me.

© Shashank Goel, Ambootia™ Tea, 1998-2007.